Day 7: The last day on the ice, E Tutto Relativo and the return of Chamonix

Hotel La Barme, I really love It here. I think the staff are wonderful and some of the people I've met here have been so nice. I love that about the climbing community, it's full of the best people to surround yourself with. If only I could stay longer but I have to say farewell Today. I wish I had gotten everyone's name and that I could keep in touch with certain individuals. I can only hope that we meet again sometime, sooner rather than later I'm sure we will see each other randomly on the ice.

An earlier start today for breakfast, thank goodness I had packed my bag last night as I found it difficult to focus on my mere 7.5 hours sleep... What's happening to me? Over breakfast we discussed the days itinerary and decided to get up and out to the route early to avoid being caught in queues when we have a return to Chamonix afterwards. The weather report stated some light snow and colder temperatures so at least our ice wouldn't disintegrate in the warm sunshine today.

Our route today is the elegantly named E Tutto Relativo. (I just love that name, it rolls off the tongue so beautifully and it's so true) It is going to be a popular route today as a few of the guys in the hotel were on it yesterday and stated that it is in good condition right now (the ice was fat apparently). I looked up some information on the route and was a little nervous about some of the comments about it, especially the 3rd pitch which has scared a few people away in the past. No matter, it's my last day I thought and I'm ready for the challenge, I'll give it my best shot for sure. No point ending the week with a half hearted effort.

Pitch 1 was quite nicely angled, the axe and feet placements were really good and the whole climb just felt really fluid. As I reached the top of the pitch it started to lightly snow, there goes my straight hair I thought. Not that the helmet didn't ruin that anyway.

Pitch 2 begins with a snow slope up to a short section of low angled ice into a little corner, another relatively simple climb, good feet and axe placements with a nice warm up to what looked to be the crux of the route...

Pitch 3, now this was going to be difficult. Standing in my little cave, protected from the snow which was falling heavier now and from seeing the real beast of a climb that was to come, I felt a little nervous about how difficult it looked up close. Andy led the pitch and Ben followed, next it was my turn. I knew from Bens climb that it as going to be a difficult one but I'd give it my best. The beginning of the climb looked difficult as i had to traverse around a bulging bit of ice before even getting to the vertical part, as it turned out this part was really nice and easy. As I removed the 1 ice screw, I eyed up my challenge and bit did it look super steep. I worked my way up as best I could but feeling some pressure from the newly arrived climbers below who, by their shouts of venga, were clearly in a hurry to get out of the heavy snow. About halfway up, struggling with an ice screw, even though I had a solid axe placement, I felt that horrible feeling... with a little girly scream I, off I came and when I finally came to a halt, I was way past where I started on the route. Andy, sensing that I was not loving my big fall, came to the edge to give me some moral support which really really helped me. So, under his instruction, I took advantage of the rest and then I took a deep breath and got back on the route. This time, I felt much more confident and I don't know how, but it felt like a much easier climb. Maybe it was the speed of which I ran up it the 2nd try that made all the difference. When I reached the top, it was heaven and I felt amazing to have completed the route. My last climb was apparently really good too, so a massive thanks to Andy for the moral support, without it I think I could have been beaten by that pitch.

Abseiling back down was just so much fun after such a hard route and so quick which, in all the heavy snow and with how soaked through we all were, was a blessing. We trudged back down the snow slope and back to Village du Cogne for some lunch and well deserved caffeine before our next part of the adventure... The drive back to Chamonix.

Cogne, what a place. If you are an ice climber and haven't been there, you have to work it out and get yourself there. What an amazing charming place. Filled with some great people, lots and lots of routes to choose from. I'm already planning to come back, wish it could be tomorrow but I'm patient and determined so I can wait longer... Just about.

It's good to be back in chamonix though, I do love this place. The hotel la chaumiere is such a lovely place, Nice staff here too.
Andy met with his new ice climbing participants tonight and we all had dinner together. Lovely people, they'll have such a wonderful time. I'm so jealous. I wish I was climbing with them. A week is just not long enough, next year I might just do 2.

S xx

Day 6: The big thaw, Cascate di Lillaz, conquering fears and Village du Cogne

Another 8 hours sleep last night, I could get used to this. I'm starting to enjoy the extra sleep that I normally live without. Too bad I'll never manage to keep it up when I get home. I arrive at breakfast this morning to find out there has been a bit of a thaw during the night and it's set to be sunny and a lot warmer today which means any route that gets direct sunlight is going to deteriorate pretty quickly. So we decide to head back to Cascate di Lillaz again where we started on Monday as it has quick access from the road but that we would do the top 3 pitches first before the sun comes out before doing the bottom pitches if we have time.

So we head out to the route and walk up to our 1st pitch which was a relatively low angled climb of about 50m in length but to start we had to walk over a frozen pool, not my idea of fun that's for sure especially when you can hear all the water rushing underneath your feet. The climb itself was so nice and I found it quite easy. Definitely a nice warm up pitch.

Our 2nd pitch was slightly more of a challenge for me as we had a pool of water on our left at the start of the route. 1: I am not a fan of pools of water, be they small or large, icy or warm and 2: I certainly do not want to fall off an ice route and be plunged into one so this pitch was more about conquering fears for me. The route itself, once I got focused, was lovely. Not steep and not boring, just right and of a good length too at almost 50m again.

The 3rd of our pitches was a little more steep to begin with but just for a short section so just when you started to get the hang of it, it was almost over. A nice challenge and a great way to warm back up after standing in the cold, windy shade at the top of the 2nd pitch. After the initial steep section, you go over onto what could almost be a slab for a few steps. I love that part because you get some excellent rest for your arms and your legs before continuing to the top of the route which had some snow, some thin ice and some mixed climbing again before topping out into the sunshine... What a beautiful finish.

After a little lunch we head back down to the bottom of Cascate di Lillaz and Andy sets up a top rope for us to have a wee play on some more ice before the sun hits the bottom and it starts to melt. We each do a pretty strenuous route up the middle of the ice before the sun comes out. We then decided to head into the Village du Cogne for some coffee and a spot of lunch. We totally deserve it this week, we've worked hard.

The village is such a lovely, quaint little place. Very quiet, you could almost be forgiven for thinking it has been abandoned. I guess their season is in the summer when the apartments will mostly be occupied. It's a shame it doesn't get more traffic in winter because what a beautiful place it is. However, on the other side of that, it's probably best because then the ice routes aren't stacked with hundreds of people. It's a dilemma really.

After lunch, we head back to the hotel. We have a little more time to spare today so I decided to pack my bag, shower and then go chill in the bar where I treated myself to another cup of the worlds best hot chocolate. It's so good. It's like a melted chocolate bar in a cup with cream on top. I love it. I was then treated to some free champagne curtesy of some French people who had just arrived that afternoon. Quite sweet really and it was just lovely to relax with a few people. After yet another massive dinner which is impossible for me to finish, I stayed in the bar for a while and talked to a few people then eventually gave up and went to bed. Tiredness is just so dominant these days.

S xx

Day 4: Pista per pedoni e Cascatisti, 5 pitch Patri and the intro to ice bruising.

Got up this morning feeling a little stiff but nothing a stretch and a walk to some ice won't cure. Met everyone at breakfast and we decided that we would go climb a 5 pitch route called Patri which would also involve a little abseiling from the top. No problem I thought, that sounds like a brilliant way to end the day.

Off we set, Ben and I with our 20 tonne backpacks and Andy looking as chilled as always, on our 1 hour "gentle wander" to the bottom of the 1st pitch along the pista per pedoni e cascatisti. We eventually get to the start of the route and we see for ourselves the magnificence of Patri. It looked amazing. So out of the backpack comes all of the kit and that makes the world of difference to the weight which is basically good because for the 1st 3 pitches we have to carry the packs up with us... Damn is my thought.

The 1st pitch is long, pleasant but tricky until the last couple placements when everything is a bit wet. I get totally soaked but somehow I don't mind. Maybe it's because I'm used to it with the typical Scottish climate. Near the end of the pitch, an Italian gentleman appears so quickly behind me but instead of feeling pressure from him, he totally puts me at ease, makes me smile and helps me get through the crux move at the top. What a lovely guy.

2nd pitch introduces me to the art of ice avoidance, massive pieces come flying at me from above, I get hit on the shins twice and the helmet takes another 2 hits. That's going to hurt in the morning I think.

3rd pitch is a nice short one, very pleasant and with a nice snowy slope to finish. The joyous thing about that is that from now we get to leave our packs at the bottom for the next two pitches as we will abseil from the top. Easy peasy I thought. So we have a bit of lunch, a drink of whatever our flask filler of choice is. It will be no surprise to those who know me that it was Hot blackcurrant for me as always.

Pitch 4 feels so much quicker due to the weight difference when not carrying a pack. It's also a lot easier to look around you and see footholds without being hit on the back of the head with your pack. With some slushy ice and some lovely solid axe placements, this pitch was my favourite of the day. A nice finish on a little ledge kept me safe until I can start the final section.

The final pitch, a very pleasant climb around an ice corner and then up to a thin section of ice through a narrow gully with a little bit of mixed climbing. A very nice climb with a lot of new technique thrown in. Once at the top, the next thing was to get back down, a little short (approx 50m) abseil. Coming down at the start was good until I emerged from the enclosed rock and saw the whole world open up below me. I felt more than a little exposed at that moment but as it was the only way down, there really was not much choice. So I slowly made my way down to the bottom and once on solid ground again, I felt safe. What a fantastic feeling.

All that was left was the long walk back to our accommodation. I won't lie and say that it was as easy as the walk in, it wasn't. Even though it was the same route, it felt twice as long and twice as hard. I can see why people get injured on the descent from big mountain days, the concentration is gone, the footwork is always a little more wobbly but finally, it comes to an end and I'm back in the bar with a cup of tea... Time to celebrate the day and prepare to do it all again tomorrow.

S xx