Today is the 1st rest day I've had and you would think I'd be taking advantage of a long lie in bed, lots of sleep and a big hearty breakfast but instead, I had about 5 hours sleep, got up at 7am and ate a bowl of cereal and croissants (my favourite thing in the world) before washing that down with about 4 cups of tea. You would also think that I would be loving being able to not do much and just chill out but those closest to me will know that after about 2 hours (maximum probably) of having nothing to do, I tend to get a little restless and bored. I like the fact that I always want to be doing something active, I don't think it's a bad thing at all.
The weather here in Chamonix isn't the best today so I won't be doing anything touristy that requires a good view to make good use of it. Instead I decided to spend some time reading and writing and then I began going over some plans for my next adventures. Lots of investigating and pricing of trips, training and equipment. There is so much I want to do and then there is even more that I have to do in order to allow me to fulfil my future dreams.
It's always a difficult thing to decide what is next on the cards, lots of questions can be asked at this time: What should I do first? What comes next? How do I arrange that? How much will it cost? What training is involved? How much time do I have to dedicate to that? The list of questions is endless really. I don't know how other people go about making sure these questions are answered but for me I usually find it best to write things down and just work through it, kind of like a to do list of questions. But that's just me. So today I took some time to write some stuff down and give me a new list of things to answer.
After a few hours of sitting around, I had to get out. So I out on my waterproof jacket and off I went to wander in the light snow around Chamonix Centre. Not heading anywhere in particular, I just strolled and looked in some shop windows before I bumped into Ben. We decided to go for a drink to pass some time and I got to enjoy one of my favourite drinks, desperados and watch some rugby in a little pub somewhere off the main beaten track. We had a spot of lunch and then went back to the hotel as Ben had to leave for home, hope all goes safely there. So here I was again back at the hotel, just relaxing with a cuppa watching some rugby before I decided to go get showered and ready for dinner. I arranged to meet up with Simon again for a few drinks after dinner. It's always nice to have an evening plan in a new place. Beats sitting watching YouTube videos alone in the room haha.
I had dinner with the guys on the weekend ice climbing trip and got to hear some great stories and learn a little more about them all and then met simon and his friend for a drink and had a great night with some new friends.
Talking about stories,. Dan (on the ice climbing weekend course) in particular has a great story to tell, he is heading to Everest in March this year and plans to out the first red nose on the summit for comic relief. As it's not really my story to tell, it's best that he tells you himself to please go to www.everestmillion.com to check it out. I do wish him all the best of luck with it and I am sure the whole expedition will be a massive success. I look forward to following all the progress online.
S xx
Showing posts with label jagged globe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jagged globe. Show all posts
Saturday, 2 February 2013
Friday, 1 February 2013
Day 7: The last day on the ice, E Tutto Relativo and the return of Chamonix
Hotel La Barme, I really love It here. I think the staff are wonderful and some of the people I've met here have been so nice. I love that about the climbing community, it's full of the best people to surround yourself with. If only I could stay longer but I have to say farewell Today. I wish I had gotten everyone's name and that I could keep in touch with certain individuals. I can only hope that we meet again sometime, sooner rather than later I'm sure we will see each other randomly on the ice.
An earlier start today for breakfast, thank goodness I had packed my bag last night as I found it difficult to focus on my mere 7.5 hours sleep... What's happening to me? Over breakfast we discussed the days itinerary and decided to get up and out to the route early to avoid being caught in queues when we have a return to Chamonix afterwards. The weather report stated some light snow and colder temperatures so at least our ice wouldn't disintegrate in the warm sunshine today.
Our route today is the elegantly named E Tutto Relativo. (I just love that name, it rolls off the tongue so beautifully and it's so true) It is going to be a popular route today as a few of the guys in the hotel were on it yesterday and stated that it is in good condition right now (the ice was fat apparently). I looked up some information on the route and was a little nervous about some of the comments about it, especially the 3rd pitch which has scared a few people away in the past. No matter, it's my last day I thought and I'm ready for the challenge, I'll give it my best shot for sure. No point ending the week with a half hearted effort.
Pitch 1 was quite nicely angled, the axe and feet placements were really good and the whole climb just felt really fluid. As I reached the top of the pitch it started to lightly snow, there goes my straight hair I thought. Not that the helmet didn't ruin that anyway.
Pitch 2 begins with a snow slope up to a short section of low angled ice into a little corner, another relatively simple climb, good feet and axe placements with a nice warm up to what looked to be the crux of the route...
Pitch 3, now this was going to be difficult. Standing in my little cave, protected from the snow which was falling heavier now and from seeing the real beast of a climb that was to come, I felt a little nervous about how difficult it looked up close. Andy led the pitch and Ben followed, next it was my turn. I knew from Bens climb that it as going to be a difficult one but I'd give it my best. The beginning of the climb looked difficult as i had to traverse around a bulging bit of ice before even getting to the vertical part, as it turned out this part was really nice and easy. As I removed the 1 ice screw, I eyed up my challenge and bit did it look super steep. I worked my way up as best I could but feeling some pressure from the newly arrived climbers below who, by their shouts of venga, were clearly in a hurry to get out of the heavy snow. About halfway up, struggling with an ice screw, even though I had a solid axe placement, I felt that horrible feeling... with a little girly scream I, off I came and when I finally came to a halt, I was way past where I started on the route. Andy, sensing that I was not loving my big fall, came to the edge to give me some moral support which really really helped me. So, under his instruction, I took advantage of the rest and then I took a deep breath and got back on the route. This time, I felt much more confident and I don't know how, but it felt like a much easier climb. Maybe it was the speed of which I ran up it the 2nd try that made all the difference. When I reached the top, it was heaven and I felt amazing to have completed the route. My last climb was apparently really good too, so a massive thanks to Andy for the moral support, without it I think I could have been beaten by that pitch.
Abseiling back down was just so much fun after such a hard route and so quick which, in all the heavy snow and with how soaked through we all were, was a blessing. We trudged back down the snow slope and back to Village du Cogne for some lunch and well deserved caffeine before our next part of the adventure... The drive back to Chamonix.
Cogne, what a place. If you are an ice climber and haven't been there, you have to work it out and get yourself there. What an amazing charming place. Filled with some great people, lots and lots of routes to choose from. I'm already planning to come back, wish it could be tomorrow but I'm patient and determined so I can wait longer... Just about.
It's good to be back in chamonix though, I do love this place. The hotel la chaumiere is such a lovely place, Nice staff here too.
Andy met with his new ice climbing participants tonight and we all had dinner together. Lovely people, they'll have such a wonderful time. I'm so jealous. I wish I was climbing with them. A week is just not long enough, next year I might just do 2.
S xx
An earlier start today for breakfast, thank goodness I had packed my bag last night as I found it difficult to focus on my mere 7.5 hours sleep... What's happening to me? Over breakfast we discussed the days itinerary and decided to get up and out to the route early to avoid being caught in queues when we have a return to Chamonix afterwards. The weather report stated some light snow and colder temperatures so at least our ice wouldn't disintegrate in the warm sunshine today.
Our route today is the elegantly named E Tutto Relativo. (I just love that name, it rolls off the tongue so beautifully and it's so true) It is going to be a popular route today as a few of the guys in the hotel were on it yesterday and stated that it is in good condition right now (the ice was fat apparently). I looked up some information on the route and was a little nervous about some of the comments about it, especially the 3rd pitch which has scared a few people away in the past. No matter, it's my last day I thought and I'm ready for the challenge, I'll give it my best shot for sure. No point ending the week with a half hearted effort.
Pitch 1 was quite nicely angled, the axe and feet placements were really good and the whole climb just felt really fluid. As I reached the top of the pitch it started to lightly snow, there goes my straight hair I thought. Not that the helmet didn't ruin that anyway.
Pitch 2 begins with a snow slope up to a short section of low angled ice into a little corner, another relatively simple climb, good feet and axe placements with a nice warm up to what looked to be the crux of the route...
Pitch 3, now this was going to be difficult. Standing in my little cave, protected from the snow which was falling heavier now and from seeing the real beast of a climb that was to come, I felt a little nervous about how difficult it looked up close. Andy led the pitch and Ben followed, next it was my turn. I knew from Bens climb that it as going to be a difficult one but I'd give it my best. The beginning of the climb looked difficult as i had to traverse around a bulging bit of ice before even getting to the vertical part, as it turned out this part was really nice and easy. As I removed the 1 ice screw, I eyed up my challenge and bit did it look super steep. I worked my way up as best I could but feeling some pressure from the newly arrived climbers below who, by their shouts of venga, were clearly in a hurry to get out of the heavy snow. About halfway up, struggling with an ice screw, even though I had a solid axe placement, I felt that horrible feeling... with a little girly scream I, off I came and when I finally came to a halt, I was way past where I started on the route. Andy, sensing that I was not loving my big fall, came to the edge to give me some moral support which really really helped me. So, under his instruction, I took advantage of the rest and then I took a deep breath and got back on the route. This time, I felt much more confident and I don't know how, but it felt like a much easier climb. Maybe it was the speed of which I ran up it the 2nd try that made all the difference. When I reached the top, it was heaven and I felt amazing to have completed the route. My last climb was apparently really good too, so a massive thanks to Andy for the moral support, without it I think I could have been beaten by that pitch.
Abseiling back down was just so much fun after such a hard route and so quick which, in all the heavy snow and with how soaked through we all were, was a blessing. We trudged back down the snow slope and back to Village du Cogne for some lunch and well deserved caffeine before our next part of the adventure... The drive back to Chamonix.
Cogne, what a place. If you are an ice climber and haven't been there, you have to work it out and get yourself there. What an amazing charming place. Filled with some great people, lots and lots of routes to choose from. I'm already planning to come back, wish it could be tomorrow but I'm patient and determined so I can wait longer... Just about.
It's good to be back in chamonix though, I do love this place. The hotel la chaumiere is such a lovely place, Nice staff here too.
Andy met with his new ice climbing participants tonight and we all had dinner together. Lovely people, they'll have such a wonderful time. I'm so jealous. I wish I was climbing with them. A week is just not long enough, next year I might just do 2.
S xx
Monday, 25 June 2012
Sometimes it's good to step back and rejuvenate your plans
It's been such a long time since my last update and you may think that I have forgotten or abandoned this place but it's actually been all go here. I've spent a lot of time calculating and saving and doing meticulous research for my future dreams and lots and lots of training to get myself in the right mindset to tackle the project without distractions. That was more difficult than I anticipated really.
The first thing I had to do was determine what; after the mountaineering course; came next in the plan. When looking back at my old plans, they were just a rough sketch and were not as realistic and as indepth as I needed them to be. Now if I have learned anything from my time studying various courses, both at work and university, it is that you have to set yourself SMART objectives. (i.e Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Realistic, Timely) to give yourself the biggest chance of success.. So I had to go back to the start and re-plan. That meant scrapping my rough plan and sitting down to write a whole new one.
As the long term dream is such a massive one, it had to be broken down into 2 year increments so that I could focus on taking steps rather than huge leaps which would inevitably be detrimental in the long run.
So for the next step in the plan I broke it down to 2 choices, an advanced mountaineering course at altitude or ice climbing. Both are beneficial as the altitude exposure and Ice climbing skills are a major part of the long term goal. In the end, it came down to what skills would take longer to perfect and after some research and finding a suitable course, I decided to go on an Ice Climbing course in Chamonix and Cogne in January with Jagged globe. That way I have exposure to altitude and am getting more ice climbing experience. 2 birds: 1 stone. Especially if I manage to squeeze in a few extra days around it but that's another story.
Over the past few months I have been doing so much climbing as part of my training programme to get myself strong and fit for the challenges ahead. Most of my training takes place at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena where I go climbing for around 6 hours a day, 3 times a week. On top of that, once a month, I practise my ice climbing at the Ice Factor in Kinlochleven for 2-4 hours. I have also added in gym sessions a 3 times a week in order to help build core and back strength. I am still nowhere near ready but I am definitely a lot closer than I was at the start of the year. Now, with more appropriate SMART objectives, I am in the right frame of mind for it and after another 7 months of hard work and training, I'll be ready.
It's definitely a great feeling to have a plan in place towards your dreams and now with my next adventure just around the corner, Fun is definitely in my immediate future.
The words of wisdom today are:
The first thing I had to do was determine what; after the mountaineering course; came next in the plan. When looking back at my old plans, they were just a rough sketch and were not as realistic and as indepth as I needed them to be. Now if I have learned anything from my time studying various courses, both at work and university, it is that you have to set yourself SMART objectives. (i.e Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Realistic, Timely) to give yourself the biggest chance of success.. So I had to go back to the start and re-plan. That meant scrapping my rough plan and sitting down to write a whole new one.
As the long term dream is such a massive one, it had to be broken down into 2 year increments so that I could focus on taking steps rather than huge leaps which would inevitably be detrimental in the long run.
So for the next step in the plan I broke it down to 2 choices, an advanced mountaineering course at altitude or ice climbing. Both are beneficial as the altitude exposure and Ice climbing skills are a major part of the long term goal. In the end, it came down to what skills would take longer to perfect and after some research and finding a suitable course, I decided to go on an Ice Climbing course in Chamonix and Cogne in January with Jagged globe. That way I have exposure to altitude and am getting more ice climbing experience. 2 birds: 1 stone. Especially if I manage to squeeze in a few extra days around it but that's another story.
Over the past few months I have been doing so much climbing as part of my training programme to get myself strong and fit for the challenges ahead. Most of my training takes place at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena where I go climbing for around 6 hours a day, 3 times a week. On top of that, once a month, I practise my ice climbing at the Ice Factor in Kinlochleven for 2-4 hours. I have also added in gym sessions a 3 times a week in order to help build core and back strength. I am still nowhere near ready but I am definitely a lot closer than I was at the start of the year. Now, with more appropriate SMART objectives, I am in the right frame of mind for it and after another 7 months of hard work and training, I'll be ready.
It's definitely a great feeling to have a plan in place towards your dreams and now with my next adventure just around the corner, Fun is definitely in my immediate future.
The words of wisdom today are:
Don't let the fear of the time it will take to accomplish something stand in the way of your doing it. The time will pass anyway; we might just as well put that passing time to the best possible use ~ Earl NightingaleS xx
Tuesday, 7 February 2012
Day 2: Aonach Mor
What a beautiful day in Scotland. We couldn't have asked for better weather for our first day in the mountains: Clear skies, sunny rays coming from a bizare object in the sky and pleasant temperatures ranging from 1C to -4C... Perfect!
Today we headed for Aonach Mor where we got the gondola up to approx 600m. We then began our leisurely day with some walking and footwork practise on some fairly light terrain. We then had some educational fun in the snow practising our ice axe arrest technique before a much needed lunch and then getting the crampons on and heading further up the mountain on much steeper terrain at approx 30degrees.
We had a full day of fun, education and exercise, just what you need on a sunny, crisp Scottish day... so get out there folks but be safe if you do so.
Heading back to the hotel, time for a much needed relaxing shower, a feast and blether with the others and then sleep because lets face it; I have to go through it all again tomorrow
Sx
Today we headed for Aonach Mor where we got the gondola up to approx 600m. We then began our leisurely day with some walking and footwork practise on some fairly light terrain. We then had some educational fun in the snow practising our ice axe arrest technique before a much needed lunch and then getting the crampons on and heading further up the mountain on much steeper terrain at approx 30degrees.
We had a full day of fun, education and exercise, just what you need on a sunny, crisp Scottish day... so get out there folks but be safe if you do so.
Heading back to the hotel, time for a much needed relaxing shower, a feast and blether with the others and then sleep because lets face it; I have to go through it all again tomorrow
Sx
Sunday, 5 February 2012
Mountaineering, Day 1: Let the games begin
10 months of waiting has finally come to an end. My plans have finally officially been kick started and it is such a great feeling.
Drove up to the Ballachulish hotel this afternoon, passing through places like Kilmahog (Love that name) and Callander and as I noticed the hills becoming more and more snow covered, the excitement grew into a really girly scream. I had no way to prepare for that, it just happened and im sure if you had seen me, it would have been hilarious.
The course kicked off with a short introduction, meeting the instructors and each other before we got all of our kit ready and then after a lovely dinner, we then had a presentation so that we knew roughly what to expect in the coming week and; as the presentation was titled; 'how to cope' haha
There are actually 3 courses running at the one time this week, so there are a few folk in the hotel but on my specific course there are only 6 people so it's a lovely small number which should hopefully make it a lot more intense and focused.
Now, just lazing in my very comfy hotel room, I am hoping that I can beat my usual 'unsleepiness' and perhaps sleep soon so that I am well rested for the big day ahead. So on that note, buzzing with excitement, off I go to attempt that which manages to evade me on such a regular occasion.
Bring on the winter games!!!
S xx
Drove up to the Ballachulish hotel this afternoon, passing through places like Kilmahog (Love that name) and Callander and as I noticed the hills becoming more and more snow covered, the excitement grew into a really girly scream. I had no way to prepare for that, it just happened and im sure if you had seen me, it would have been hilarious.
The course kicked off with a short introduction, meeting the instructors and each other before we got all of our kit ready and then after a lovely dinner, we then had a presentation so that we knew roughly what to expect in the coming week and; as the presentation was titled; 'how to cope' haha
There are actually 3 courses running at the one time this week, so there are a few folk in the hotel but on my specific course there are only 6 people so it's a lovely small number which should hopefully make it a lot more intense and focused.
Now, just lazing in my very comfy hotel room, I am hoping that I can beat my usual 'unsleepiness' and perhaps sleep soon so that I am well rested for the big day ahead. So on that note, buzzing with excitement, off I go to attempt that which manages to evade me on such a regular occasion.
Bring on the winter games!!!
S xx
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